Ask any plumbing expert, putting in a sump pump is no easy process. It will usually be more efficient to get your home pump professionally installed rather than attempting to do it yourself. Results may vary depending your level of skill, so if you are unsure, don’t stress needing to pay for a technician.
If you are brave enough to go solo, read take notes..
Step 1: Preparation
It’s best for the sump pump to sit at least 8 inches from your basement corner wall. Plan on the pit being at least a 4ft x 4ft square . After you draw in your forms on the concrete, use a jackhammer to cut the perimeter in 8-12 inch sections
Once the entire area has been cut into, insert the hammer into the floor at an angle to pry up the first pieces of flooring. Place the remains of all the concrete chunks into a bucket.
Step 2: The Foundation Forming
After all is removed, know you must dig the soil from the area. Use a liner to check the progress made. Keep pressing downward digging until the liner top sits level with the floor. This is how you know the hole is deep enough.
Next, you will want to place the pit liner into the hole. A ½ foot is the minimum of gravel we recommend placing around the liner.Put in adequate amounts of gravel to bring the grade 1 in. above the basement floor 3in so it sites a total of 4in above the soil.You will now need to level the gravel with a wooden float. Doing so will guarantee a 1 inch above the original bed and above the footing. This allows water to seep down into the gravel pit.
Step 3: The Concrete
Since the pit liner is now locked in place by the gravel surrounding it, one can fill the area with concrete.
The correct mixture is:
Add water until mixture is smooth enough to spread. Pour the concrete mixture in with a board and wooden float. Pack the edges tightly against the edges of the wall and existing floor and smooth the surface with a trowel. You must let the fresh concrete cure for at least a day or two.
Step 4: Purchasing & Placement
First, start by threading the 1.5 inch diameter threaded discharge port and tightening it until snug. The next step will be to use PVC cement and glue a short riser into the male adapter.
Before you begin to set the pump in the pit, bind the electrical cords to tape in the ties. Slowly grip the support ring and riser while carefully lowering the pump into the pit.
Step 5: Adjustments
Keeping the pump in place, add in a checker valve riser. This part is essential because otherwise the motor would burn out quickly. It only requires a tiny amount of water to activate the mechanical components, which runs shortly then turns off.
Out of the box, the valve from will also include rubber couplings and clamps. Make sure the arrow is pointing upwards, which indicates the flow position. Then fully tighten the coupling beneath it over the riser.Add yet another riser section above the previous valve, which comes between the ceilings joists.
Step 6: Eliminating the Water
The water exposed from the sump pump obviously cannot be emptied into the house, so it must be eliminated outdoors. The simplest approach is to bore the rim joist to run the water in a pipe through the joist on a corner wall.
Remember to avoid splintering the hole for the sake of your siding. A great option is to locate the hole on the outside. Create a small hole through the rim joist to test.
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